Ancient Greece: Parthenon an icon of antiquity built for Greek gods

The Parthenon, which is undergoing rehabilitation, is the major temple to be seen by visitors after a climb to the Acropolis in Athens. (Courtesy of Cathryn Knezevich)

I vowed to see the Parthenon on this, my fourth visit to Athens, and my friend Cathy and I arrived a few days before our cruise and booked a tour of the Acropolis, on one of the highest hills of the city.

Although I’m not as ancient as these Greek icons, time has taken its toll on me, and I can’t climb without help from a cane. That meant watching my feet and where they were placed before viewing my surroundings.

Greece, I quickly learned, has lots of marble not only in its bathrooms and public places but also on walkways and inclines. Years of foot traffic make it slippery, even when dry, so it’s important to watch where one steps, cane or not. Because taking photos and notes is not consistent with watching one’s feet, I relied on my friend for some of that.

It is a steep climb up to the entrance of the Acropolis, which dates to 438 B.C. and embraces the Parthenon and other temples to the Greek gods. But the wonderment at passing through its magnificent Propylaea passageway to see this most revered of ancient monuments framed beyond the entry overcomes any aches resulting from the effort to reach it.

The Parthenon is dedicated to the goddess Athena, and it’s where she was worshiped and offerings to her were given.

None of the buildings on the Acropolis can be entered, and the west end of the Parthenon is covered with scaffolding for the ongoing restoration efforts. But back in the times when these spaces were considered sacred, only a select few were allowed inside.

After an earlier rendition was destroyed by the Persians, the Parthenon was rebuilt by Pericles but later fell to the Romans, the Persians and the Turks. Although built to honor Athena, over the centuries of various occupations it served as a Christian church in the fifth through 11th centuries and a Muslim mosque for the Turks in 1456. It was later used to store munitions by the Venetians when they laid siege to the Parthenon, and a massive explosion in 1687 ripped off the Parthenon’s roof and destroyed much of its decor.

Then in 1801, Lord Elgin, British ambassador to the Ottoman Turks, took away many of the Parthenon’s remaining sculptures and friezes. They now are housed in London at the British Museum, where they’re called the Elgin Marbles. Greece has sought their return for almost two centuries, and in 2009 the Acropolis Museum was built southeast of the Parthenon and low on the hill.

After entering the seven-acre Acropolis hilltop, the Parthenon is on the right and the much smaller Erechtheion on the left. What’s called the Porch of the Caryatids distinguishes the Erechtheion with six tall maidens serving as columns to support the roof. The so-called lady columns are replicas today. One of the originals was carried off by Lord Elgin and is in London, another is in the Acropolis Museum and the four others are lost.

The Erechtheion, opposite the Parthenon on the 7-acre Acropolis hilltop, is distinguished by the Porch of the Caryatids, where six tall maidens serve as columns to support the roof. (Courtesy of Cathryn Knezevich)

The Erechtheion was constructed in 410 B.C. to mark the spot where Athena and Poseidon battled to be the patrons of the city that was to become Athens. Poseidon, brother of Zeus, launched his trident at the earth, which opened to reveal a fresh-water spring, while Athena, daughter of Zeus, stabbed a rock with her spear and an olive tree appeared. A diagonal crack near the Erechtheion’s north entrance is said to be where Poseidon’s trident split the earth.

Athena, who claimed the olive tree would give wood, shade and oil, won the contest and naming rights to the city growing around the mountain. An olive tree remains growing at the Acropolis not far from the lady columns. The Erechtheion was built to allow worship of both gods.

Walk around the buildings to examine them, although know you cannot go inside.

But the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, which you can see on the right as you approach the entrance to the Acropolis, is one ancient building that’s still in use. Built in 161 A.D. by Roman Herodes Atticus as a memorial to his wife, the 4,500-seat theater was fully restored in 1950. Today, it’s a venue for concerts and events, including the annual Athens Festival. Next year’s festival is June 15 to July 23.

The city of Athens spreads out beyond the 4,500-seat Odeon of Herodes Atticus, built in 161 A.D. just below the entrance to the Acropolis. Today, it’s a venue for the annual Athens Festival. which is June 15 to 23 in 2022. (Janet Podolak)

Acropolis tickets are about 20 euros ($24), but many discounts are available. Learn more at Archeology Travel. Carry water and wear sturdy shoes, a hat and sunscreen when visiting the Acropolis. It’s a challenging walk up the hill, and there’s little shade, so go early in the day if possible. I visited on a half-day shore excursion arranged by Celebrity Cruises that included a drive among the major sights in Athens. Our guide was Eva Vassilatou, who can be booked by email.